in which Greta slides down a salt mine and we raise a glass at the Augustiner Braustubl {The Great European Road Trip Day 7: Klagenfurt to Hallstatt to Salzburg, Austria}
our family bed was quite cozy, but i kept waking up during the night to check the time, afraid that my phone battery would die and thus my alarm wouldn't go off in the morning. finally 6:15 came and i padded downstairs to find that Chris had already been up to re-kindle the fire (which heated the water) and had had his shower. so i hopped in the shower myself and then we all pitched in to get breakfast ready and pack up the van. as we stepped outside, we had our first glimpse of The Hut in daylight! fog blanketed the valley below, but every so often the mists parted a bit and we could see the mountains opposite.
Greta went on a little adventure with an empty pail she found in the barn
so much scope for the imagination!
while we finished loading up the van, the girls entertained themselves in the water trough
the barn had a rickety little lookout on the top, but the fog made it impossible to see much!
more self-directed "chores"
we finally embarked on the three hour drive north to Hallstatt, stopping along the way for McDonald's coffee. as we sped through the Alps, Father once again chose the perfect soundtrack.
we arrived in Hallstatt around noon, with plenty of time (we thought) to make it to the 1 PM salt mine tour. Hallstatt is built on the edge of the sparkling Hallstätter See (Lake Hallstatt), and it was settled by the early Celts sometime between 800-450 BC due to its natural salt stores. salt production has continued through the centuries. in 1595, a large pipe was laid to transport salt to Ebensee, 40 kilometers (24 miles) away. in modern times, tourism makes a significant contribution to the economy, which we discovered as we drove around trying to find a parking spot. all the lots were full and we had soon driven all the way out of town. Nick executed a flawless three-point turn across the narrow road to head back towards the funicular which runs to the salt mine, planning to drop us off and then attempt to find parking -- and just as we approached the funicular, a few spots opened up in the parking lot there. thank you, St. Raphael! the funicular ride was worth the trip in itself. the ride was included in the price of the salt mine tour, but you can also buy tickets just for the funicular (which is what i did for myself and Cecilia, as kids under the age of 4 are not allowed in the mine).
even on an overcast day, the view was absolutely spectacular. but the funicular ride would likely not be fun for someone who doesn't like heights! nor would the skywalk that connects the upper funicular station to the mine. thankfully, none of us suffer from acrophobia, and we just couldn't stop marveling at the incredible scenery.
photo credit: Angel
we finally had to tear ourselves away from the skywalk to trek another ten minutes up the hill to reach the lodge, where the others would check in for their tour.
view from the porch of the lodge
this friendly chap appeared throughout the grounds to provide directions
after the others had checked in, Cecilia and i waved goodbye as they went into another room to don their jumpsuits and they were off to ride the train over to the entrance of the mine.
photo credit: Angel
they got to ride down this huge slide near the end of the tour! (photo credit: Angel)
meanwhile, Cecilia and i ensconced ourselves near the little cafe in the lodge. after a gourmet lunch of a gigantic hotdog, Cece fell asleep in the stroller while i sipped a Kaiser beer and took advantage of the free wifi to catch up on Facebook. after she woke up, we discovered the cutest children's play area with a TV, coloring books and crayons, puzzles, books and toys -- really thoughtful of them since i saw quite a few other parents with young children waiting for the other parent and older siblings to finish the tour.
about ninety minutes later, the others emerged smiling ... well, Greta was hungry, tired and cold, but she said she had fun. they were given a small container of authentic Hallstatt salt at the end of the tour, and on our way back down to the skywalk, Greta kept eating little bits of it straight out of the container. goofball! we stopped for a few more pictures on the skywalk, and then headed back down the funicular to explore the town below.
the town itself is adorable almost to the point of ridiculousness. it almost doesn't even look real. once again, our cameras were put to work! the lake was as still and black as glass. the girls were so excited to see the swans, and kept quacking at them. we stopped in a few different shops to look for souvenirs, and found a perfect dirndl for Greta to wear to mass in Salzburg the next day. then Angel and i sampled several kinds of schnapps, including a local variety that is made from pinecones, which was surprisingly good!
war memorial
a nod to Chinese culture; the Chinese have been so enamored of Hallstatt that they created a replica of the town in Guangdong province
this sign made us laugh, but it's also sad that they have to post something like this!
it's almost like being in Rome again!
the schnapps shop is also a woodshop with all sorts of beautifully carved toys
by this time, it was getting dark. we bought a snack at a little food stand (Cecilia ate her second hot dog of the day - mom of the year right here) and then got on the road to Salzburg. this was only an hour drive, a relative blink of an eye!
our first order of business in Salzburg was to eat a proper dinner and avail ourselves of the delicious beer at the Augustiner Braustaubl. Nick and i were here in 2012 on our previous trip to Austria and Germany, and it was even better than i remembered. you pick up a ceramic mug (half-liter or liter) at the entrance, get your beer, find your own seat in any of the huge rooms, and then go in search of food. the food is arranged similar to a food court, with several different stalls offering all kinds of different food. the bratwurst! the sauerkraut! the schweinshaxe! the mustard, oh the glorious mustard. we were sharing bites all round.
beer served directly out of wooden kegs (photo credit: Angel)
not exactly a low sodium diet. that's why it's so delicious!
Cecilia in her element (photo credit: Angel) - also please note, Greta is watching Daniel Tiger on my phone. seeing kids on phones or tablets at a restaurant is a huge pet peeve of mine. but after a full week of restaurant meals every night, not to mention the hectic pace, i was ready to do just about anything to make it through dinner!
Cecilia demolished the rest of Nick's dessert
with full bellies and happy hearts, we got settled in our hotel for the evening and fell fast asleep!
it feels a bit preposterous to sit down and type out a list of woes on my personal laptop, in my own heated house, while my four healthy children nap or play (respectively) and I sip on a San Pellegrino flavored water from a case that a neighbor on our Buy Nothing group just gifted us. and yet. and yet! there has been quite a bit of woe in the last several weeks and I want to complain about it, so I shall. at the top of the list: car woes. not one, but two of Nick's cars were hit by other drivers within the past month. fortunately he was not injured, but working on his cars is essentially therapy for him -- so he lost not just two vehicles in his fleet, but also the time that was required to deal with insurance and police reports, and the emotional benefit of his favourite hobby. this car was rear-ended while parked. Nick wasn't actually in the car, but saw it happen -- the driver of the SUV in the photo below was driving full speed in the right hand lane and didn't reali
Victoria Anne was born on the Fourth of July, weighing 6 pounds 3 ounces and measuring 19 inches long! Miss Victoria arrived right on schedule -- I had requested a 39 week induction based on numerous factors, including my age and gestational diabetes, although thank goodness the diabetes was well controlled without medication, so my maternal fetal medicine/high risk OB was comfortable letting me go up until 41 weeks if I wished -- which I didn't! I had an easy induction experience with Greta (at 10 days post-due date), so I was fairly confident that my body would kick into gear quickly the fourth time around. Cecilia's birth was a precipitous one-hour labor that has garnered her the nickname Sidewalk Baby, and Elizabeth was born after a relatively quick five hour labor. 39 weeks happened to fall exactly on the Fourth of July, and we decided to go for it! Mom arrived on a red-eye flight the morning of July 2, and came along to mass with us. that evening, we squeezed in
1) Baby Victoria Anne is here! you can read her full birth story here . she arrived at 5:18 PM on the Fourth of July, and we are all absolutely smitten. she is four weeks old today. as I've experienced with now all four of my girls, time is such an elusive concept in the newborn stage. on the one hand, it seems she can't possibly already be almost a month old, while on the other, I can't imagine a time that she wasn't a part of our family. one of the things I treasure most about this postpartum time is the opportunity to visit with friends and family. I'm so grateful for their support and thoughtfulness in bringing meals and spending time together -- it's nourishing for both body and soul! Vin and Susan brought us a delicious meal featuring pork belly and pork tenderloin (we had corn on the cob and salad too, but we probably could have all used a bottle or two of Lipitor!) unbelievably delicious ladies' night with my best girls (not pictured: pizza and wi
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