Italy - day 5!

our first Sunday in Rome! we had auspicious plans to go to the 10:30 Latin mass at St. Peter's (rather than the 9:30 Italian service). after much googling regarding if we'd be allowed to bring our stroller and diaper bag backpack, we made it out the door in our Sunday best for the twelve-minute walk to the Vatican, cutting through the bus station to avoid some of the heat and traffic (the downside is the steadily increasing scent of pee as you walk further into the station). we emerged on the left-hand side of St. Peter's Square at 10 AM and joined the line to go through the metal detectors. once inside, we saw that the square itself was completely packed with people, many of whom had brought yoga mats and beach towels to stretch out on the ground. it looked more like an outdoor concert than the entrance to a church. then we saw huge Jumbotron screens where the mass was being broadcast from the front steps of the church, where it was being celebrated. we knew that the mass we wanted was being celebrated inside, so we slowly made our way up around toward the front of the church where we encountered an armed guard, letting only a few people through once he saw their badges. Nick said, "qui per messe" ("here for mass") so he would let us through. he shook his head. Nick tried again, pointing to his watch and adding that the mass started at 10:30. again the guard shook his head, and said, "mass at half-past nine" and gestured to the crowds. we decided to try going around the square and entering from the other side. this proved to be a Sisyphean task, as people were sitting around all of the columns and along the steps, and we also were trying to be unobtrusive and reverent as the outdoor mass proceeded. we stopped to ask another guard how to get inside for mass, and he said,"no other mass until 1500."

the view from the far end of the piazza ... fat chance of getting inside

so, we decided this must be some special event and headed off to find another church. fortunately, the Chiesa di Santo Spirito in Sassia is just down the street and we caught the tail-end of their English mass, including the announcements which mentioned that today was Italian Youth Day at the Vatican (aha! that explains it). we then stayed there for mass in Italian at 11 AM. the church is a beautiful Renaissance structure built in the 12th century, and restored in the late 1500s. as always, participating in mass in a foreign language is such an incredible experience in the unity of the church. the order of service, the responses and the gestures are the same. our individual languages and idiosyncrasies are blurred in the vast tapestry of the liturgy as we worship our God together. 

leaving the Borgo area to head back home

little shrine on side of the road leading up the Janiculum Hill

after mass, we came back home for pranzo (lunch) and a quiet afternoon. i did quite a bit of research to prepare for grocery shopping and cooking this week (the best information came from sites teaching study abroad students how to cook!). the girls cooled off with a pool party on the terrace, and then we were invited to join the seminarians for a casual pizza cena (dinner) in the refectory. orientation for the new seminarians begins later this upcoming week, so the school is still fairly empty except for faculty and returning seminarians who are helping with orientation. 

the refectory is beautifully light and airy, with huge glass windows facing the grounds. i took the picture below as we were leaving just before 8 o'clock, so it was much brighter when we first arrived. we enjoyed pizza, salad, watermelon and dessert, and met several of the other faculty and seminarians. everyone has been so friendly and welcoming. one of the priests gave us some much appreciated information on the best local supermarkets (apparently there is a full grocery located within the Vatican with excellent prices and some imported foods, but we need a special card from the business office to gain access). 

at the top of my plate, note the salad made of peas, carrots, pineapple and mayonnaise  -- delicious!

we had talked about going out for gelato afterwards, but it was already 8 p.m. and the girls were tired, so we came home and started bedtime routines. i actually fell asleep in bed with Greta, while Nick headed over to La Botticella to watch the Steelers pre-season game ... and it's a very good thing he did, because Giovanni had been holding onto Greta's pink water bottle that she left there! when i couldn't find it in the apartment, i assumed it was lost forever. Nick said that as soon as he got within eyesight of La Botticella, Giovanni ran outside to flag him down and return the water bottle. grazie, Giovanni!! it's good to know that the Steelers Nation is watching out for us abroad as well as at home!