Split, Croatia - Days 1 & 2

in March, we were thrilled to have the chance to travel to Split, Croatia for Nick's first international organ recital. you might think that his first international recital would be in Rome, and that's certainly what we were thinking. he's given recitals all over the U.S. and performed in Europe as an accompanist, so he's certainly qualified. but the Italian organist culture is a special sort of beast, with very few jobs or even freelance opportunities to go around. needless to say, when he was invited to play in Croatia, we were happy to pack up our bags and jet across the Adriatic for a long weekend. we looked into taking the ferry, but since we only had four days available, we wanted to make the most of our time and it's hard to beat a one hour direct flight from Rome into Split.

it looks like a movie set, but it's real! 

the flight itself was perhaps the best flight i've ever taken with kids. with just an hour airborne, there was just enough time to avail ourselves of the delicious snacks (salty pillows 4 LYFE) and the sweet little coloring books the flight attendant brought for the girls. i also really appreciated the ingenious cupholder that you can use even when your tray table has to be stowed. and then, of course, there was complimentary wine, because it's an international flight. thank you, Croatia Airlines!

take-off at sunset. 100% recommend.

so smart.

coloring book, snacks, the NAC library's copy of Master of Hestviken by Sigrid Undset, and wine.
best flight ever. 

we landed in Split's tiny airport and had our passports stamped without any trouble. before we left, i had purchased tickets for the airport shuttle bus since the airport is about 20 km (12 miles) from the city center, and it was definitely the fanciest airport shuttle we've ever seen! as we zipped along, we marveled at the smoothly paved highways, brightly lit signs, and general lack of trash and graffiti everywhere. we were definitely not in Rome anymore!

we had booked an Airbnb in the historical center of Split, known as Diocletian's Palace. the Roman emperor Diocletian retired in Split in the year 305 AD and built this massive compound. it's really more of a walled city than a palace, and we were lucky enough to snag a fantastic deal on a sweet apartment within the wall!

that felt green bag on the wall held slippers for all guests to use! we also appreciated
the books and maps. 

our host gave us some of his own sherry and plum brandy (rakia). Croatian hospitality
at its finest! 

we had a late dinner of these flaky pastries stuffed with meat and cheese. 

view from the window

the next morning dawned beautifully sunny, although brisk and windy. outside the bathroom window, we could look down onto the street where a huge market was set up. to reach it, we walked out through the winding streets of Diocletian's palace. the polished limestone and marble positively glittered against the coastal skies.

the entrance to our Airbnb

fourth-century mosiacs

an unsuccessful attempt to make friends with one of the city's cats

the spire of the Cathedral of St. Domnius

 the market itself was a smashing success. the girls inhaled about two pints of strawberries within five minutes and we bought some sort of smoked meat for later. just walking around the market was a feast for the senses. Nick spotted the old scale systems still employed, with different numbered weights available. and then we had to buy sunglasses for the girls, because the light reflecting off the palace was really almost blinding!

Cece's sunglasses crack us up every time she wears them

we then embarked on a long, meandering, self-guided tour of the city. first landmark: the colossal statue of Bishop Gregory of Nin, who was a strong promoter of Croatian nationalism and introduced the mass in Croatian (instead of Latin) in the year 926 AD. the statue was erected in 1929 by Croatian artist Ivan Meštrović in the central Peristyle of Diocletian's palace, but during World War II, when Croatia was under Italian control, the statue was moved outside the city as it was thought to incite patriotism. it still remains just outside the palace walls, but was re-erected in its current high profile spot in 1954. 

rubbing his big toe for good luck. Greta thought the other toes would feel left out, so she rubbed them all!

we walked back through the gate into the old city in search of some lunch. Diocletian's Palace is absolutely enchanting, and we loved all of the architectural details.

glimpses of the sea

one of the main thoroughfares in town

beautiful, but too fancy for the likes of us! 

the fish market. Greta was aghast: "is that blood on the ground?"

then we discovered a hole-in-the-wall lunch spot that could not have been more perfect. Popaj reminded me a bit of a gourmet version of Subway, with cheap but delicious sandwiches, pizza, and burgers made to order. Nick opted for the ćevapi, a Croatian specialty of grilled mince meat sausages served with a red pepper sauce and onions. the girls had gigantic pieces of pizza. i ordered a grilled chicken salad, which was fine, but upon seeing Nick's meal, i instantly regretted my choice!

sufficiently stuffed, we continued our walk along the Riva, the waterfront promenade dotted with benches, palm trees, and little cafes.

such a gorgeous city!

riding in style

photo credit: Greta!

trying on Greta's new sunglasses...

Greta was really feeling the photo shoot today!

is this real life?

baby Ceece!

we walked back in another entrance to the palace and entered the basement area, which is now used as a sort of flea market. you have to pay a fee to enter the archaeological site, with massive subterranean rooms that were once used as kitchens and storehouses, but you can get a sense of it just from walking through the area that connects the Riva to the interior of the palace.

then we emerged into the sunlight once more to explore the Peristyle, the center of the palace. Diocletian used to walk out along the little balcony to the accolades of his citizens.

this basalt lion is from ancient Egypt

parkour, Split-style

workmen buzz all around town in these little carts

by this point, the girls were ready for a little down-time at the apartment, so Nick took them back while i explored the city on my own for a while. my first objective was to visit the Cathedral of St. Domnius. this small building was originally constructed by Diocletian to serve as his mausoleum. later, it was transformed into a church, an ironic metamorphosis since Diocletian, as Roman emperor, had issued multiple edicts commanding the persecution of Christians in the early fourth century. St. Domnius was the bishop of the nearby town of Salona and was put to death himself by Diocletian for his faith. the cathedral was consecrated near the end of the seventh century, and work continued on it over the following centuries (for example, the bell tower was added in the 1100s).

the high altar of the cathedral. the choir is located behind the altar.

an inscription commemorating restoration of the cathedral undertaken by
Emperor Franz Joseph of the Austro-Hungarian empire

these wooden doors were carved by a Croatian artist in the thirteenth century

another view of the altar

funerary monument of St. Anastasius, under renovations

the old altar, containing the remains of St. Domnius

trying to catch a glimpse of the frescoes in the choir

the pulpit (on the right side of the picture) dates from the thirteenth century

i had wanted to seize the kid-free opportunity to climb the bell tower, but unfortunately it was closed for renovations, so i set off to visit the baptistery. to get there, i walked back across the Peristyle, up the steps, and through this round building with an open roof.

the baptistery was a few minutes' walk away, and i got a bit turned around in the narrow, winding streets. eventually i discovered the small building, which used to be the Temple of Jupiter and was turned into a baptistery in the sixth century. its entrance is also guarded by a sphinx, apparently one of twelve that Diocletian had brought to Split from Egypt.

looking back toward the cathedral

the somewhat foreboding entrance to the baptistery

the baptistery is small but packed full of history. two former archbishops of Split are buried here, and fragments of the old marble altar partition are preserved here, forming the baptismal font (which now seems to mostly be a spot to collect donations).

the statue of John the Baptist was created by Ivan Meštrović

portions of the 11th-century rood screen

i'm not quite sure why we Catholics are so obsessed with rubbing the big toes of statues...

original coffered ceiling

then i just wandered around the city, enjoying the distinct architecture and medieval buildings tucked away down tiny alley-ways.

the Golden Gate Palace, built in the fifteenth-century for a noble family. the downstairs is
now used as a restaurant. 

the courtyard of the Golden Gate Palace

the staircase leading to the Church of St. Martin, a fifth- or sixth-century tiny chapel that was built
right next to the sentries' station in the wall of Diocletian's Palace. unfortunately the church
was closed. i would have liked to see inside! 

the old meets the new! i thought this tiny garbage truck was adorable.

the Game of Thrones souvenir shop. many scenes in the show were filmed at nearby Kils fortress or even within the city
of Split itself.

the girls' wildest dreams come true! 

the town hall 

from the portico of the town hall, which is now a museum

this clock situated above the Iron Gate dates from the twelfth century

i finally made my way back to the apartment, where we convinced the girls to put pants back on (are my children the only ones who love to run around pantsless in the comfort of their own home? i hope not). it was time to venture out in search of dinner! we walked through past a few sculptures and finally re-emerged on the Riva. 

this statue honors Marko Marulić, the father of Croatian literature

i love everything about this town! 

the Riva promenade at twilight

darkness fell as we walked along. in a moment of serendipity, we discovered a fountain with a light show that mesmerized the girls for at least ten minutes. 

finally, we arrived at Fife restaurant, which had been described as popular with tourists and locals alike for its delicious, reasonably priced food in a casual atmosphere. and boy, did it deliver. the waitstaff spoke some English, which was appreciated because we definitely did not have a good grasp of the Croatian alphabet or pronunciation rules! we sat down to a feast of fried squid and freshly caught grilled sea bass. we ordered spaghetti with butter for the girls (their go-to comfort food meal at Italian restaurants is pasta bianca, just pasta tossed with butter or olive oil and maybe some cheese), and of course, mineral water with gas for the table. the girls actually liked the squid, although Greta requested "no pieces with arms"! the food was outrageously delicious and ridiculously cheap. three cheers for Split! 

we walked back to the apartment along the Riva, watching the reflection of the glittering stars in the Adriatic. once again, i had to pinch myself -- is this real life? after seven months of living in Italy, it was exhilarating to explore an entirely new culture (albeit one that both influenced Italy and was influenced by it). it renewed my appreciation for this vast, diverse, and beautiful world, and all the people in her.