the Villa Farnesina is one of Rome's hidden gems. if you're here for three days, or even a week, chances are your schedule is appropriately packed to the gills with the major sights (the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, St. Peter's, the Vatican Museum, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, etc). but the Villa Farnesina is worth a visit if you need a little break from the ancient Roman ruins, or if you're lucky enough to live just up the hill from it, as we do! i've walked past the Villa countless times, and although i had read about the beautiful Raphael frescoes which decorate its walls, actually seeing it for myself was incredible.
yesterday, Nick had the day off, so we all walked Greta to school in the morning, and then he and Cecilia and i set off for Via della Lungara, number 230. Nick pushed the stroller along the cobblestones while balancing an umbrella over the stroller canopy to keep Cecilia dry, as it was sprinkling rain (and the Italians don't believe in getting wet, and
especially not in allowing your children to get wet). after a fifteen-minute walk, we arrived at the tall gate and entered the grounds.
the Villa was built on the banks of the Tiber River in 1506 by the wealthy banker Agostino Chigi, who circulated in the top tier of Renaissance Roman society. he loaned money to such influential people as Cesare Borgia, the French king Charles VIII, Piero de' Medici, and the popes Julius II della Rovere and Leo X Medici. Chigi commissioned Raphael and other artists (including Baldassarre Peruzzi and Sebastiano del Piombo) to decorate the villa with frescoes, which are thankfully well preserved. if only these walls could talk! Chigi was known for his elaborate parties, most notoriously the christening banquet for his son in 1518. after his guests had eaten their fill off of his golden serving dishes, platters, and utensils, Chigi commanded his servants to throw the precious dishes into the Tiber as a testament to his wealth. (legend has it that he had previously had nets laid in the river to catch the dishes so his servants could secretly retrieve them after his awed guests left!)
knowing a bit about the history of this mansion, i was excited to see it for myself. upon entering the Villa, you can see right through to the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche on the other side, which was the original entrance. then you immediately turn to the right, buy your ticket (€6 for adults, not bad!), and enter the Loggia of Galatea.
and here's where i really needed a refresher in Greek mythology. the Loggia is decorated with scenes and characters from Ovid's
Metamorphoses. the most famous fresco in the room was painted by Raphael, and depicts the story of Galatea and Polyphemus. Galatea was a beautiful nymph who was pursued by the Cyclops Polyphemus (Poseidon's son). however, Galatea was in love with Acis. in this scene, Galatea is seen fleeing from Polyphemus with the help of various sea creatures. Nick noted that Raphael must never have seen an actual dolphin before!
the ceiling is decorated with other mythological scenes as well as depictions of Chigi's horoscope. it was fascinating to see the work of three different artists (Raphael, Baldassarre, and del Piombo) in one room.
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| a glimpse out the window |
next, we entered the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche, which originally was open to the air and served as a grand front porch to the villa. now this legend was more familiar to me, as it's the basis for C.S. Lewis'
Till We Have Faces, one of my favourite books. according to the legend, Psyche was the youngest and most beautiful of an unnamed royal couple's three daughters. young men began making offerings to Psyche instead of to the love goddess Venus, who consequently became jealous and ordered Cupid to shoot Psyche with an arrow so that she would fall in love with some grotesque creature. however, Cupid himself falls in love with her. the legend is complex and involves kidnapping, wandering, mistaken identity, a series of tasks including an dangerous quest to the underworld, and ultimately, reunion and a joyful wedding. the entire Loggia is decorated with scenes from this legend.
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| Cecilia loved these chairs (conveniently placed so you can admire the ceiling frescoes!) |
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| the wedding feast of Cupid and Psyche, attended by all the gods |
the loggia looks out over the north side of the gardens. before it was enclosed, Chigi used this area as a stage to produce theatrical events.
next, we went into the small atrium to access the stairs. beyond the frescoes, the architecture of the villa is so beautiful!
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| the ceiling in the atrium |
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| these door pulls are not messing around |
upstairs, we entered the huge Hall of Perspectives. Chigi hosted his wedding banquet here in 1519 (yes, a year after his son was christened). Baldassarre Peruzzi painted the room with "perspective views" of various landscapes seen beyond painted columns. later, a fresco of Vulcan's forge was added above the fireplace.
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| there is some major cherubic side-eye going on in this fresco, although my photo is not sharp enough to see it clearly! |
one of the most interesting features of this room is actually a defacement that happened in 1528 -- possibly the oldest surviving graffiti. the text was written by one of the Landsknechts (or Lansquenets), a mercenary military force that participated in the Sack of Rome in 1527. it reads: "Why should I who write not laugh -- the Lansquenets have set the Pope on the run." there was a rope barrier several feet away from this wall so i couldn't get close enough to take a clear picture, but you can see the writing above the painted town.
the next room is called Alexander and Roxane's Wedding Hall, depicting the marriage of Alexander the Great. this was originally Chigi's bedroom. the frescoes here are done by various artists, none of the Raphael's caliber.
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| Roxane reclines on the bed, awaiting nuptial bliss with Alexander |
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| I love the cherub yanking on her foot (also, can you see the difference between this and Raphael's work?) |
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| more mischievous cherubs |
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| Nick said, "I need to learn how to build a coffered ceiling" |
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| Alexander riding Bucephalus |
just off the bedroom is a narrow hallway that led to the rooms of Chigi's wife, Francesca, and their children. the ceiling is covered in "grotesques", which are mythological creatures.
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| looking out at the Lungotevere, the main road that runs along the Tiber River |
our visit to the Villa concluded with two small rooms, the Hall of the Frieze and the Pompeiian Hall. the Hall of the Frieze is so-named because of Baldassarre's frieze that encompasses the entire room, depicting the twelve labors of Hercules. this room was initially used as a waiting room for guests, and also for official business.
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| a closer view of the frieze |
the Pompeiian Hall used to be the landing for a staircase that connected to the kitchens in the basement. however, in the nineteenth century, the Villa had been leased to the Spanish ambassador of Naples, Salvador Bermudez de Castro, the duke of Ripalta. he undertook various remodeling projects, including transforming this staircase into a hall. the decorations are in the style of Pompeii.
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| apparently i am incapable of holding Cecilia and taking a clear photo at the same time |
in the last room, you can see the layers of the walls exposed from various eras -- the plaster to the fresco to the wallpaper. the Villa currently belongs to the State and is preserved as a museum.
we really enjoyed our visit. i'd say that an hour to ninety minutes is plenty to take it all in, but those well versed in mythology could probably spend a few hours studying all of the frescoes!
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